Deep in the Amazon, a Remarkable Beach (and Ant-Eating) Experience

NEW YORK TIMES | on Mon, Mar 20, 9:30 AM

The British naturalist Henry Walter Bates[1] made it here in the 1850s, calling Alter “a neglected, poverty-stricken place.” “The houses in the village swarmed with vermin; bats in the thatch; fire ants (formiga de fogo) under the floors; cockroaches and spiders on the walls,” he wrote. Despite such misgivings, this place grew on Bates, who would let his mind wander on Alter’s beaches after conducting research in the surrounding forest into animal mimicry that supported Charles Darwin’s theor...

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